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It was my first experience of parasailing ? and as I flew like a modern-day Icarus, in sunglasses and swimsuit, hundreds of feet up, with the cristalline waters of the eastern Mediterranean stretching to infinity underneath me, it really did seem as if the whole of Cyprus was laid out for my inspection below.
There were the famous beaches, smart hotels and fish restaurants of Ayia Napa, which have drawn visitors to this coast for decades; there was the magnificent rocky headland of Cape Greco, home to tiny coves and some of Europe's most beneficent snorkelling; beyond that loomed the peaks of the Troodos Mountains, the island's most surprising landscape, with its hill villages, cool forests and trout streams; and finally, over there ? a few kilometres into the hazy distance ? was the unrestrained city of Famagusta, once Cyprus's most popular resort, but under foreign occupation since the Turkish invasion of 1974, a poignant reminder of its troubled past and still-divided present.
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